Journal
Notes from the valleys: seasons, places, food and practical advice from our team.
When to visit Kashmir and Ladakh: a season-by-season guide
The two regions have almost opposite seasons. Here is how to time your journey for snow, blossom, meadows or high passes.
Acclimatising in Ladakh: why we never rush the first two days
Leh sits at 3,500 metres. A slow start is the single most important part of any Ladakh itinerary.
A guide to Kashmiri houseboats
Dal or Nigeen? Deluxe or heritage? What to expect from a night on the water in Srinagar.